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Autor Tema: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos  (Leído 57650 veces)



Desconectado Montañes

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Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« en: Dom, 22 Mayo 2005, 20:28:20, pm »
bueno espero que os guste,correcaminos ;)


Vehicle Specs:

1985 U1300L - registered in Oklahoma - Clear Title

OM352A Turbo Charged.  200+ Horsepower, 3000 Miles Since Total Engine Rebuild.

New Clause 22% Overdrive just installed, less than 50 Miles on unit.

New Tires - Michelin XZL 14.5R20

Front Mounted Utility Winch

Rear 2" Receiver Hitch

Engine Driven AC Unit (Camper also has additional roof top mounted AC Unit.)

Cab Roof Raised 11”

 Electronics – 2 Meter 4/40, High Frequency TS 50 with tuner, Radio with CD, CB Radio, Backup TV camera.

Recent mechanical work performed:

Bushings on anti-sway bars replaced, New Shocks, Main Air Brake Valve rebuilt, Rear Brake Calipers Rebuilt, Rear Helper Springs with spacer installed, Custom High Capacity Radiator.

Camper Specs:

Camper custom designed and built to spec for current owner:

Auminum substructure with sandwiched foam/wood with 3/8" exterrior Shell Fiberglass.  Supporting structure every 12".  (Built to take serious expedition work.)

Water Tanks – 50 gallon, Gray Wayer – 45 Gallon,  Black Water – 50 Gallon

Fuel Tank – 95 Gallons

Propane 20-gallon with rear barbecue connection.

 Roof Mounted A.C. Unit

Refrigerator Runs off of AC, Propane, and Batteries.

Trace Inverter - with Solar Panels mounted on roof.  Fully Automated battery management system.

Spare tire mounted on roof - Includes crane with electric winch for tire retrieval.

Custom Interior - Solid Oak Cabinets, high quality cloth upholstery.  Day and Night Privacy Shades

Propane fired Hot water system.

Electric Auto Stairs - When door is opened stairs lower.

Energy Efficient Dual Pane Windows – Tinted

Extra Large Rear Bunks with Secondary Sleeping in the Dinette Area.

Built with additional headroom.  Very Roomy.

Shower and Fresh Water Toilet.

Onan Generator - Completely Rebuilt

Construction Pictures









Interior Shots:














https://www.expedition-imports.com


« Última modificación: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 19:48:39, pm por Montañes »
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de un Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #1 en: Dom, 22 Mayo 2005, 20:36:55, pm »
muy currao si señor!! ;)
www.fjcruiserforo.com
<a href="https://www.fjcruiserforo.com/foro/imagenes/banner_fj(2).swf" target="_blank" class="new_win">https://www.fjcruiserforo.com/foro/imagenes/banner_fj(2).swf</a>



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Re: Construccion de un Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #2 en: Dom, 22 Mayo 2005, 20:52:25, pm »
otro








After the box was completely skinned, holes were cut for windows, skylights, and storage compartments.  These openings were then prepped for primer and paint, as well as the remaining unpainted steel surfaces inside.  Everything was primed with epoxy and all exposed surfaces were covered in white PPG Concept single stage top coat.



With the paintwork complete, aluminum angle was cut and installed to protect all external corners and seams.  The trim was screwed in place using stainless steel fasteners, and also completely sealed with GeoCel tri-polymer transportation sealant.


To finish the general box construction, the entire structure was insulated with 2" closed-cell foam insulation, yielding a total value of R-20 when combined with the outer fiberglass-reinforced structural foam skin.




The door has dual rotary latches - one on each side.  These are automotive-quality, and provide positive, safe, two-stage latching to keep the door shut.  Sometimes called "bear-claw" latches, they are welded into the door and close around adjustable strike bolts with retainers welded to the frame...

Inside the lower section, you will find two solenoid latch actuators which allow remote electrical opening of the door with a key chain transmitter.  (There's also a mechanical release outside, which we use 99% of the time.)


Downward movement is slowed with passive hydraulic extension dampers, and limited by quick-release cables commonly used on Ford pick-up tail gates.  In the photo below, you can also see the door jamb contacts required for the solenoids...

Only the lower door section is electrically released.  While the upper section has gas springs to raise it, I mounted them in such a way to hold the door closed when it is vertical.  The gas spring force required to automatically raise the door from a closed position would make the door very difficult to shut when open - especially for my wife.  It's also good to keep the upper section closed to retain heat when camping in the winter. 

abre la puerta, no la rueda....quien preguntaba en otro tema ya tiene la solucion

It was my original plan to build these doors.  After buying the required materials for their construction, I discovered that custom compartment doors were readily available and only a phone call away!  Since I'd already made my purchase, I decided to go ahead and make them myself.  Let me tell you, it would have been much easier to just buy the pre-hung doors and install them, but the quality of those doors would have been typical lightweight aluminum RV junk.  (Or at least that's what I told myself as I spent a couple weeks in the shop cutting, trimming, painting, sealing, hinging etc...)

My first step was to cut the rough openings for the doors.  I used a router and 3/8" flush-trim bit to accomplish this.  In one step, I cut the rough opening and created the actual door panel too.  The door panel was already the correct size, with no further cutting required.  Once the rough openings were cut, I welded in a steel flange around the opening to hold a rubber bulb-type weatherstrip gasket.  I then trimmed the openings with aluminum angle, fastening it with stainless steel machine screws and tri-polymer construction sealant. 

Here's the left side ready to be disassembled, seams sealed with SEM epoxy seam sealer, and painted with PPG epoxy primer and Concept top coat ...



The material removed from the rough openings was trimmed with aluminum angle, and the doors were then hung with aluminum leaf/stainless pin continuous hinge.  They are held closed by keyed stainless steel camlocks...

 
In left-side and right-side photos below, you can click on each compartment door to see what's inside.  You will be taken to a bookmark on a WebPage regarding the applicable mechanical system.   






With the partition bulkhead installed, stained, and protected with marine-grade spar varnish, I finished off some remaining pieces of insulation, then skinned the  interior with Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic paneling.  It is glued to the insulation and riveted to the steel with plastic rivets.  Although heavy, I chose it for it's strength, ease of cleaning, and temperature stability.  Here's a shot of the FRP being installed on the ceiling of the mess area...

Next, I focused on the mess area.  I built the wall cabinets, then took care of the base cabinets and seating.  Everything is glued, screwed, dado'd, etc.  All cleats are bolted to steel frame members, and also 'insulated' with a bead of tri-polymer sealant to eliminate vibration.  To finish the Mess, I built the countertops with oak edge trim.  Fortunately, by this time my dad had returned to the ranch.  The extra set of hands was really welcome when it came time to glue down the laminate! 

Once the countertops were installed, I got the appliances in order.  The fridge is a NovaKool 4.5 cf DC fridge.  It features the German Danfoss compressor and draws only 2.2 amps (12 VDC) for about 20 minutes of every hour.  It even has a small freezer section.  The stove is a Wedgewood Vision 16" range, and has a hood with light and externally vented fan.  There's plenty of storage under the seats at the table.   

Here are some shots of the mess area.  (Cabinet doors are in the works right now...)




And the bottom of the Wedgewood Vision range, LPG supply line, and more storage can also be accessed externally via a compartment door underneath the range...

The range is the only LPG appliance we have.  It is supplied from an aluminum marine-grade horizontal DOT tank of 10 lbs. capacity (enough for over a month of cooking.)  It is located in the left side trapezoid compartment behind the rear wheel, which is externally vented for safety...

The Bunk covers much of the mechanics of the camper: water supply, water heater, expansion tanks, batteries, charging systems, toilet, and externally accessible storage.  It has a queen-sized futon mattress, is very roomy and quite comfortable.  There's plenty of space for my wife, myself, and of course, Charlis-dog.  In the bunk, we have wall cabinet storage for clothing, and also an LCD television, DVD/VCR combo, and Blaupunkt CD-receiver with speakers in the mess and bunk.  To Charlis, it's a great dog bed, with windows for "scopin' for wabbits....


Both the mess area and bunk have three windows and one roof vent.  The mess area has a Fan-Tastic powered vent, which is thermostatically controlled, and quickly and quietly exchanges air in the camper.  We also have a Porta-Potti 565 self-contained chemical toilet stowed under the bunk, behind a soon-to-be-made door. 

We are really pleased with our camper so far.  In fact, I find myself sleeping in it quite often, as the cool evening breezes make for exceptional cross-ventilation in the bunk.    As I write this, it's haying season in our part of Wyoming.  The camper's coming in handy as I can park it right in the meadow by my baler, and jump out of it and into the tractor early in the morning, and get a few bales made while the coffee's brewing.  When I'm finished working, the water's ice cold and really washes the dust out of my throat.


"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de un Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #3 en: Dom, 22 Mayo 2005, 20:55:35, pm »
....

water system

The camper carries 40 gallons of fresh water, and 23 gallons of gray water from the sink.  These water tanks are located under the bunk and heated by return-airflow to the camper's water-to-air heat exchanger.  Nothing is exposed, or located underneath the camper's floor to freeze or get punctured.

A shot of the water tanks, as seen through the front left compartment door.  Fresh water on the bottom, gray water on the top.  Although from a plumbing standpoint it would have made more sense to mount the fresh on top and waste below it, the tanks were mounted in this configuration to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.  The corrugated hose is the fill hose, and the 1-1/2" to 3/4" transition and ball valve are for the gray water drain.

Water levels are monitored from the Mess area on this JRV panel near the sink base cabinet...

In the front right compartment behind storage space, you will find components of the potable water system.  In this image, you can see the water pump on the left, mounted to the wall.  The gray tank next to the water pump is the captive air tank to smooth out the pump's water delivery, and the orange tank is the water-to-water heat exchanger for making hot potable water.

This marine-grade heat exchanger is of 22-liter capacity, manufactured in Sweden for Indel Marine of Italy.  It will produce almost 6 gallons of water in under one hour by just driving the Unimog!  Constructed of stainless steel and very well insulated, it loses about 1ºF per hour once the potable water is heated.  On my recent journey to RMM 2003, I was amazed to have plenty of hot water on Sunday morning, after shutting the camper off Friday night!

With the bed platform removed, a bird's-eye view reveals the expansion tank for the hydronic heating system.  (top right corner of photo below)  This tank is only functional when the camper is not mounted to the chassis.  Its purpose is to absorb expansion of the coolant as it is heated.  It also contains an air scoop and air bleed valve to help remove pockets of air from the heating system's coolant circuit.  All of these items are mounted inside a watertight curb on the camper floor.  Should any component or line leak, water or coolant will drain onto the ground without wetting the rest of the camper. 

Everything listed above is support equipment for a simple stainless steel double sink with Moen faucet...


https://www.ki7xh.com/camper.htmesto y algo mas
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de un Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #4 en: Dom, 22 Mayo 2005, 20:56:09, pm »
Solo 2 cosas ALUCINO DE COMO SE LO HAN CURRAO  :o :o :o :o :o :oY ME ESTOY AHOGANDO EN MI PROPIA BABA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.Un saludox4
"El que discute con un imbécil se vuelve imbécil y medio"



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Re: Construccion de "DOS" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #5 en: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 08:48:22, am »
menncaaaannnta la puertaaaaaaaaaaaaa del segundo. Yo tb babeo. Muy probabelmente instale un calentador de agua similar en la trafic

Saludos camperos
Solo necesitas 2 herramientas en la vida: 3 en 1 y cinta americana. Si no se mueve, pero debería, usa el 3 en 1. Si se mueve, pero no debería, la cinta americana.



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Re: Construccion de "DOS" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #6 en: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 17:28:14, pm »
si somos muchos los cerdos,perdon soñadores que babeamos :D ;D





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Re: Construccion de "DOS" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #7 en: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 19:35:50, pm »
¿QUIEN NO ACABE COMPRANDOSE UN UNIMOG NO SERÁ POR MI....EH!  ;D




DIOS como se lo curran, preparados, no sea que os mojeis los pantalones de.. con babas :D


On the 8th of May 2000 I purchased an ex-army Unimog U1300L from Frank Atkinson. With a ground clearance of 435mm, an approach angle of 51° and a departure angle of 46° this is a formidable off-road vehicle. The 5.6 litre 96kW diesel engine drives the wheels through an eight speed box and portal axles.

My Mog was first registered in April 1980 and has about 25km on the clock. Originally painted in camouflage it was serviced, cleaned and sprayed silver by Frank Atkinson.

 In order to gain the maximum space the body has been extend to the maximum allowed by the UK Construction and Use rules. To retain the departure angle the rear part of the body is cut away, this space is used to carry a demountable Jerry can rack and/or sand mats.

The campervan body design (loosely based on the one in John Speed's excellent book Travel Vans) incorporates a permanent bed across the rear of the vehicle with externally accessible storage underneath.

If you would like a copy of the simple CAD drawings of my MOG body (in GIF image format) click here for the top, left, right and back views.

In May 2000 the chassis cab was transported to Willingham's (near Hull in England) who have done an excellent job in building a GRP/Plywood body on the metalwork of the original flat bed. Because the body of a Unimog is designed to twist on the chassis the tunnel between the cab and the body has to be very flexible!
The small front widow (above left) is for the shower room, the central window is for the dining area and the rear hole is a hatch giving access to the under bed storage area. The windows are all Seitz Polyurethan-Technik GmbH double glazed units incorporating blinds and fly screens. The roof (which is slightly curved) houses a large Seitz hatch to the rear and four Kyocera 60 watt solar panels at the front. A 100mm upstand provides some protection for the solar panels from low branches. (None of the roof fittings were in place for the above photograph.)

I may add some art work to the body in order to give it a more professional appearance.

My Mog July 2000The rear hatch (right) provides access to the two 6Kg propane cylinders used (only) for cooking. The combined four burner hob and sink will be just below the central window.

The main door is split in two with a retractable ladder fitted between the underside of the body and the fuel tank (the floor is 1300mm above ground level!)

A wind deflector has been fitted to the front of the body, more for aesthetic than aerodynamic reasons, with a top speed of 90kph (55mph) wind resistance is not likely to be a major cause of fuel consumption!



The metal frame provides rigidity and supports the external demountable Jerry can rack as well as providing the base of the bed.

The left section houses the two propane cylinders. The center section will be divided into a lower part containing the two 58Kg batteries and an upper storage area accessible from inside. The right hand section (only accessible from the outside) will be used to house general camping equipment, chairs, tables and fire wood.

The floor and walls will be insulated with 30mm of X-trem (a non combustible waterproof closed cell polyethylene foam - 0.02 W/M x K) most of the roof will be insulated with 45mm of X-trem.


During May and June 2000 I have been assembling the equipment and tools required for the interior of the campervan (about half of which are shown below). The large white and black sheets are 30mm X-trem to be used for insulating the walls, floor and roof. Also shown is the 340 litre fresh water tank, the 24volt compression refrigerator and the microwave as well as part of the diesel fueled Eberspächer Hydronic heating system. The two large panels in the foreground are part of the 240 watt solar charging system (the batteries are 24 volts 200AH Elecsol, not shown).


Water box construction.
My Unimog campervan incorporates both a 340 litre fresh water tank and an Eberspächer "wet" central heating system within the body of the vehicle.

In order to limit the damage that might occur if either of these systems leaked they are contained within a "water box" that also forms the base of dinning area.

The water box (1640mm long by 1050mm wide by 450mm deep) is constructed of 18mm marine ply and painted with three coats of yacht vanish. It will be fitted with a drain.

The red "tags" (above) are where the three ratchet straps that hold down the water tank will be fitted.

The fresh water tank (right) has a central inspection cover (under the strap) and three 15mm water connections (in, out and vent).

The six metal connections visible at the front left of the tank are for the water level gauge.

Fresh water is supplied by a 24 volt Shurflow TK10 pump feeding a pressure accumulator to reduce pump cycling.

Hot water is supplied from a calorifier (an indirectly heated hot water tank, not shown) via a thermostatic mixer valve.

Heating is provided by two 2.5kW fan matrix heaters supplied with pressurized hot water (>100°C) by an external Eberspächer diesel furnace. This also heats the hot water cylinder.

Both the pump assembly (above) and the heating assembly (right) will be mounted in the front of the water box.



 The red hose shown above connecting the top of the calorifier to the mixer valve caries very hot water and special (automotive) hose should be used. I know because the hose shown above failed.
The calorifier (above) is mounted only by three small copper feet, held down by the wooden ring. After two years of use one of the feet broke and as a result of vibration the calorifier developed a leak. In 2004 it was replaced with a new calorifier and an additional mounting was added in the form of an immersion heater spanner glued to the top on the calorifier and bolted to a bracket on the side of the heater mounting.

A 1kW immersion heater was fitted to the new calorifier that can, in emergency, be plugged into the 13 amp socket on the front of the kitchen units.



....
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Re: Construccion de "DOS" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #8 en: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 19:44:01, pm »
Boxes and Jerry Cans Racks.

My Unimog campervan had a number of old metal boxes and Jerry can racks that had originally been mounted under the military flat bed.

These had been painted many times but showed signs of rust.

I had three of these sand blasted and then painted them with black Hamerite paint.


The Jerry can rack was then mounted next to the fuel tank, the large box near the spare wheel and the small box on the rear right. The large box will eventually house the "furnace" of the Eberspächer heater.

So these boxes and racks can be removed and replaced when the insulated false floor is fitted they were mounted using M10 bolts welded to flat bars rather than using coach bolts that might rotate.



Under-Bed Storage Area.
My Unimog campervan has a permanent bed across the full width of the rear of the body. To support this bed and to strengthen the body it has a welded metal frame fitted.

At each side of the body is a 700mm square lockable hatch allowing external access to the storage area under the bed.

The left hand section houses two 6kg propane cylinders, the centre section houses two Elecsol 200AH 12 volt leisure batteries and the right hand section is used for general outdoor storage (tables, chairs, fire wood, bikes etc.).
.
In order to avoid the risk of an explosion in the event of a gas leak the left hand compartment is sealed to the inside of the campervan and ventilated to the outside. Because propane is heavier than air it is important to provide ventilation at floor level.

The two propane cylinders are mounted over the wooden rings and strapped into the black plastic brackets. The shaped wooden bar on the right fits over the collar of each cylinder.

The central battery section also has two plastic tubes fitted through the floor that vent any hydrogen generated by the batteries whilst charging.

The upper part of the central compartment is accessible from inside the body and is used for general storage.

As well as housing the two 6kg propane cylinders the left hand compartment is also used for the 30m fresh water tank filler hose.

The hose (food quality) is wound on a garden hose reel mounted on the compartment door and is permanently connected to the fresh water tank via a filter.

To reduce the strain on the hose reel when driving on rough roads it is supported by a strap at the top and when the door is closed by a thick rubber strip on the outer edge of the shelf.


When the vehicle can be parked close to a tap the short hose (seen coiled on the shelf) can be used without unwinding the full hose reel.

If water has to be pumped (from a river or well) a 24volt submersible pump (bottom left hand corner) can be attached to the hose and powered from a socket mounted under the floor.

I have added a water pre-filter (10 micron) between the hose reel and the fresh water tank to prolong the life of the drinking water filter and to allow more reliable chemical treatment of water in the fresh water tank







Thermal Insulation.

My Unimog campervan has a body built of 14mm GRP faced plywood with an 18mm plywood floor and an aluminium roof.

To reduce heat losses to acceptable levels I intend to insulate the walls and floor with 30mm of X-trem (foamed polyethylene sheet) and the roof with 60mm of X-trem.
This gives a total heat loss of about 1kW with an outside temperature of -15°C and an inside temperature of +20°C. As I have at least 2kW of heating available this should mean that my Mog will be suitable for use in Northern European winters.

Consider adding more insulation to the rear wall, say 60mm not 30mm





Bed Room Walls and Ceiling.
My Unimog campervan has a permanent sleeping area about 2100mm long by 1400mm wide by 1200mm high over the rear lockers. The walls of this area (14mm GRP coated Ply) were insulated with sheets of 30mm X-trem between 27 x 32mm battens attached to the walls with Sikaflex 221 adhesive at about 300mm centers.

I considered lining this area with thin MDF, carpet, and fabric coated hardboard, but eventually settled on 1.5mm plywood. This has the advantage of being easy to cut with a craft knife, very strong, very light and easily finished with polyurethane or paint. It's only disadvantage being it's high cost.

In order to utilize the area above the bed for storage two removable shelves were fitted to take five large plastic storage boxes.

Consider more insulation on rear wall, say 60mm of X-trem not 30mm.



Over Sink Cupboard.

My Unimog campervan has a 1500mm long high level cupboard mounted over the sink/hob. This cupboard contains three "bays" each of approximately 500mm width with a single top-hinged door covering all three "bays". Because the cupboard has to hang from the roof and wall it has been constructed to be both light and flexible.

The cupboard is 450mm deep and 300mm high. The outer two "bays" have a shelf dividing the rear half. The four vertical dividers and the horizontal mounting strips are of 12mm ply.

The base is of 6mm ply and the shelves of 4mm ply. Both the cupboard and the shelf have a lip to stop item falling out when the door is opened. The unit is screwed and glued. Although the cupboard will only be used for light items it will easily carry 100kg.

The lift up door is 12mm MDF with a 120mm wide strip of 12mm ply at the top to add rigidity and strength for mounting the four spring loaded hinges.

You also need lots of storage for small bits, Later I added a smaller version of this cupboard, underneath the big one, for little things.





(....)
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Re: Construccion de "DOS" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #9 en: Lun, 23 Mayo 2005, 19:47:51, pm »
Kitchen.
My Unimog campervan has a compact kitchen area adjacent to the main door.

The left hand "bay" of the kitchen includes a 24 Volt RA-80T Coolmatic 80 Litre refrigerator with energy accumulator (lower space) and a 24 Volt FM17 550 Watt Microwave oven (upper shelf). There is an external ventilation hatch behind these two items and four air inlet holes in the floor.

The centre "bay" is occupied by four removable plastic drawer units.

The right hand "bay" includes two large cupboards. The upper cupboard contains the Nature Pure water filter and the main gas tap. This cupboard is vented through the floor.

Above the centre and right hand "bays" is a Smev Series 6000 combined sink and hob unit set in a standard kitchen worktop.

The 24 Volt microwave failed in China and was replaced with a 2000 watt inverter and a cheap mains microwave. This also allowed the use of a small 1000 watt electric kettle. A better solution.





Seitz Ventilation Hatch.

My Unimog campervan has both a compressor refrigerator and a 24 volt microwave oven (replaced with a 2000 watt inverter and mains microwave)  fitted under the worktop. Both of these items require ventilation. The refrigerator to remove heat from the condenser, and the microwave to extract steam.

To provide this ventilation I have drilled air inlet holes in the floor and fitted a Seitz ventilation hatch in the wall of the van behind the refrigerator and microwave oven.

The area behind the refrigerator and microwave is sealed and is not insulated. To reduce the energy consumption of the refrigerator its existing insulation is augmented by an additional 30mm of X-trem.

The hatch is fitted into a hole cut in the GRP faced plywood wall of the van with 30 x 4mm screws and Sikaflex 221 adhesive.





el resto para otro dia, para que no os quedeis con las ganas https://www.xor.org.uk/unimog/mymog.htm
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #10 en: Mar, 24 Mayo 2005, 00:52:30, am »
No te enfades montañes pero.....eres un cabrón....jajajajajajajaja Dice os vais a mojar; da asco este escritorio.
Un Saludo.
S, R y GS



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #11 en: Mar, 24 Mayo 2005, 09:04:17, am »
si ya os avisé... :P

Solar Panels

My Unimog campervan uses solar panels to provide electrical power for lighting and refrigeration.

Four 60 watt solar panels (Kyocera KC60) are connected in pairs to provide up to 7 amps at 24 volts to charge my two 200AH 12 volt (Elecsol) batteries via a Steca solar charging controller.

The aluminium frame that caries the four solar panels was designed to allow two additional panels to be added. To ensure that the panels operate at their most efficient a 50mm air gap has been left between the panels and the roof.

Both the TV and radio aerials are mounted on the solar panel frame.

Four cables (one from each solar panel) as well as two from the aerials are passed through a water proof marine cable gland in the aluminium roof.

The system was temporarily assembled for testing. The four panels are able to sustain both the refrigerator and 12 watts of lighting (on for 24 hours a day) indefinitely with UK March insolation.

Although my solar panels work as advertised the need to park in the sun when shade may be available is a significant downside. I have also now added a small petrol Honda generator.



Four solar panels producing a total of about 2 amps at 25.5 volts on an overcast March day in the UK.


Heating and hot water
My Unimog campervan has a 5kW diesel powered "wet" central heating system made by Eberspächer. (Hydronic D5WS-24)

This system is very similar to a domestic oil fired central heating/hot water system. A small furnace (burning diesel fuel) heats water that is circulated through a "hot water cylinder" (a calorifier) and two fan heaters (fan matrix).

The furnace and circulation pump are mounted in a stainless steel box (400 x 300 x 150mm RS 186-4934) suspended below the rear left storage area of the vehicle.

The furnace takes its air from the outside and exhausts fumes through a small silencer to the rear of the vehicle. The furnace heats water (plus 30% anti-freeze) that is carried by two 22mm rubber pipes up through the floor into the waterbox.

The furnace uses a "glow pin" for ignition, this may need to be replaced after six months of use. I have modified access to the furnace to make this job easier. Remember to carry a spare "glow pin".


Within the waterbox the hot water from the furnace is circulated through a nine litre calorifier (light green cylinder) and two fan heaters (see below).

This type of heating system is often connected to the engine cooling system, but because the body of my campervan is above the top of the radiator (and to simplify the plumbing) mine has a separate pressurized header tank (black).

The water in the calorifier is heated to about 85°C and before use is mixed with cold water via thermostatic mixing valve just visible lower left.

The pipe that carries hot water from the calorifier to the mixer valve needs to be able to stand 85° water. Standard red plastic "hot" water pipe can not!


Heating is provided by two matrix heaters fed with hot water from the furnace. Each matrix heater provides about 2kW of heat.

With the insulation used in my campervan these heaters should be able to maintain at least 35°C temperature difference between inside and out.

I have changed the pipe routing and mounting to make bleeding the air from the system easier

The Eberspächer system is controlled by a programmable timer and thermostat mounted in the main control panel above the table.

This control panel also allows the fan speed to be selected as well as hot water only (no heating).

In October 2003, on my return from Iceland, I added under-floor heating to my Unimog campervan.

To do this I embedded about 12 metres of 10 mm copper pipe into a 9.5 mm deep routed groove in part of the 18 mm plywood floor.

The entire floor was then covered with a 2mm aluminium plate to spread the heat out evenly..

To ensure that water only circulated through the under-floor pipe when it was required I fitted a 24 volt solenoid water flow valve.


Shower Room


My Unimog campervan has a shower room in the front left hand corner of the body. This room is only 680 by 1030mm in area.

Most campervan showers consist of a nearly flat plastic shower tray partially surrounded by a shower curtain.

This arrangement usually means that unless the vehicle is exactly level the shower water does not drain. My shower room on the other hand has a very deep (120mm) welded stainless steel shower tray covering the entire floor area of the room. This tray was beautifully made, to my exact measurements, by Swiftfab. The tray is covered by a two part plastic (GRP) duck board (supplied by the Grating Company Ltd.)

Water from the sink drains into the shower tray, water from the shower tray drains into to waste water tank.

The walls of my shower room are plywood covered in a 1mm skin of Forex plastic sheet that extends from the ceiling down to the floor and inside the rim of the shower tray.

The Thetford Porta-Potti toilet is securly fixed under the sink with a Velcro strap for traveling.






The sink surround, cupboards and shelves are all constructed from 12mm Forex screwed together with stainless steel screws.

The toilet roll dispenser is designed to be water proof and to rewind the paper when closed.
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #12 en: Lun, 02 Octubre 2006, 20:44:41, pm »
otro mas








fuente
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



Desconectado One-Ten

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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #13 en: Mar, 03 Octubre 2006, 22:46:13, pm »
IMPRESIONANTE.

Por cierto, ¿alguien quiere un Defender 110? Cuando me vean llegar a casa con eso, me tiran, pero al fin y al cabo, ya tendría sitio para dormir, ¿no?



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #14 en: Mié, 04 Octubre 2006, 17:48:16, pm »
¿alguien quiere un Defender 110?

eso es GRATIS ??? ;D ;D
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #15 en: Mié, 04 Octubre 2006, 21:20:02, pm »
IMPRESIONANTE.

Por cierto, ¿alguien quiere un Defender 110? Cuando me vean llegar a casa con eso, me tiran, pero al fin y al cabo, ya tendría sitio para dormir, ¿no?
Mañana paso a por el, que me pilla cerca...
por cierto ¿os venis a la ruta de la berrea de Tierra Safari?



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #16 en: Jue, 05 Octubre 2006, 23:28:49, pm »
Como sois... si me toca la primi para hacerme con un monstruo de esos, no dudes en que no tendría problema, bueno, eso hasta que instalamos las barras, que con lo que costó, ya he hecho constar en mi testamento que me hagan un entierro vikingo en el Defe, pegándole fuego y echándolo a la Albufera al atardecer, mientras suenan Las Walkirias, de Wagner...




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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #17 en: Mar, 08 Julio 2008, 16:32:27, pm »
1968 Unimog 404S

otro, de esto...


a...



web con la preparacion y viajes...
https://homepage.eircom.net/~jconsidi/Homepage.htm
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



Desconectado Xavi-Ps10

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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #18 en: Mar, 08 Julio 2008, 17:35:01, pm »
arfff... arf.... esto no puede ser sano.. no...


Hasta el infinito y más payá...



Desconectado PK-GR

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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #19 en: Mié, 09 Julio 2008, 11:00:00, am »
aaaarrrrrrrrggggg, ..... siento como me come la envidia por dentro........aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Un saludo desde ...



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #20 en: Sáb, 14 Febrero 2009, 13:39:46, pm »
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #21 en: Sáb, 14 Febrero 2009, 16:45:50, pm »
O_O!

eso ya no es un duplex, es un triplex!!!
que pasada.
Originalmente un Nissan Pickup 'Rally Raid'... ahora es cualquier otra cosa. También llamado el Tractor.
"Algún día me daré un golpe en la cabeza, a ver si me quedo tonto"
Visítame en https://yalohasleido.blogspot.com



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #22 en: Sáb, 14 Febrero 2009, 21:22:49, pm »
 Ostras montañes que pasada este ultimo  :o, parece como si que circulara encajado y en parado subiera toda la estructura no? no tienes mas fotos? ahora, con esa altura tiene que ser curioso dormir arriba, aqui en menorca con la tramontana soplando tiene que ser divertido  ;D
--------Compro llantas de aleacion de montero segunda generacion--------



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #23 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 12:03:09, pm »
mirar que juguete, rescatador en la 25º aniversario syncro


https://www.t4bilder.de/gallery2/bilder/25jahresyncro/ralphcc/?g2_page=1
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #24 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 13:19:57, pm »
Joder, no habia visto este post, por el amor de dios!, que alguien lo cierre, lo siento pero habria que ir haciendo en el foro algun grupo para censurar y reportar a la gente que cree algun tipo de post asi.......



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #25 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 13:26:41, pm »



Desconectado Hayat

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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #26 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 16:01:29, pm »
Hay algun icono que represente interes, sorpresa, ansia y cierto grado de envidia cochina?
Los que creen que no se puede, no deberian interrumpir a los que lo estan haciendo.

Murcia



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #27 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 16:34:54, pm »
por orden

 :-*
 :o
 :-\
 >:D


_ _
 ;D
"Ahora es usted el que miente"



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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #28 en: Jue, 06 Mayo 2010, 16:41:42, pm »
Madre mia que figuras hay por el mundo



Desconectado jaimitum

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Re: Construccion de "TRES" Unimog trotamundos
« Respuesta #29 en: Sáb, 08 Mayo 2010, 23:59:43, pm »
ahhhhh!!!!!
este tipo de post deberian estar censurados.......... voy a por la fregona que lo he babeado todo ; :o.